Perfect Summer Pairing: Assyrtiko

When summer finally arrives each year, and the oppressive heat and humidity of the Mid-Atlantic (my home base) sets in, I change my food and wine the same way one might change his or her wardrobe. Out with the heavy roasted meats and root vegetables that call for equally rich wines, and in with anything and everything fresh, light and oh-so-good on the grill! I love exploring wines that pair with fish, shellfish, octopus, and pasta dishes. For that, I turn to the wine regions of the Mediterranean and Aegean seas.

There is something magical about the combination of volcanoes and grapevines. The tiny Greek island of Santorini breathes that magic into their famous white wine Assyrtiko (pronounced Ah-SEER-tee-koh). Believed to be native to Santorini, Assyrtiko has a refreshing citrus flavor combined with a flinty or stony minerality. Flavors range from lime to stone fruit, but acidity is consistently high. Indeed, it is that acidity that makes Assyrtiko so food friendly. It pairs wonderfully with shellfish, grilled octopus, even lobster salad with fresh tomatoes. This week I made one of my favorite summer dishes – grilled halloumi and lemons on a bed of arugula – and served it with an Assyrtiko from Santorini. It was indeed a perfect pairing!

Although most famously produced on Santorini, where the grapevines are trained into baskets to survive the strong winds that whip across the tiny island, Assyrtiko is now planted throughout Greece. It is familiar to most consumers as a dry wine. However, it is also produced into a decadently sweet wine made from sun dried grapes. When shopping for Assyrtiko, look for the Santorini Protected Designation of Origin on the label. Prices for the dry wine tend to range from the low $20’s to the mid $50’s for a 750 ml bottle. Be sure to avoid over-chilling the wine, as you will certainly want to indulge in its wonderful flavors and aromas.

Cheers!